Hot Spring Journeys

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Soaking in Northern California's Hot Springs

As the mist curls around your shoulders and the warmth seep into your bones, you know you've entered a different world. Welcome to the realm of Northern California's natural hot springs, where geothermal wonder meets rugged beauty, history whispers through the steam, and every dip rewrites the definition of relaxation. From redwood-flanked pools hidden deep in ancient forests to volcanic havens nestled amidst snow-capped peaks, this guide unlocks the secrets, history, safety tips, and mineral magic of these emerald oases, ensuring your Californian soak is as unforgettable as it is restorative.

Secret Soaks for Savvy Seekers:

  • Escape the crowds: Ditch the popular spots like Orr Hot Springs and venture into the pristine wilderness for hidden gems like Sweetwater Eco Spa, accessible only by boat, or Montgomery Woods State Reserve's secluded pools.

  • Embrace the rustic: Remember, these sanctuaries aren't luxury spas. Be prepared for dirt roads, simple facilities, and maybe even sharing your soak with local wildlife.

  • Pack for adventure: Sturdy shoes for hikes, a swimsuit, towel, sunscreen, and plenty of water are your essential companions. Some springs require specific attire like wool blankets for communal soaking.

  • Respect the rules: Local regulations and signage exist for a reason. Always check before you go and follow rules regarding group size, alcohol consumption, and clothing.

  • Leave no trace: Pack out all trash and avoid using soap or shampoo in the springs. These natural treasures deserve our utmost respect.

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A Historical Dip: Reliving the Tales of Time:

Northern California's hot springs whisper tales of the past. Native American tribes like the Pomo and Wintun considered them sacred spaces, using them for healing rituals and spiritual ceremonies. European settlers, drawn by rumors of their mystical properties, established resorts as early as the 1860s. Today, relics like Wilbur Hot Springs and Calistoga's iconic Mud Baths offer a glimpse into the golden age of spa culture, where health and leisure intertwined amidst geothermal wonders.

The Best Time for a Geothermal Getaway:

Each season paints a unique picture at Northern California's hot springs:

  • Spring and fall: Enjoy mild temperatures, vibrant landscapes, and fewer crowds. Ideal for exploring hidden gems.

  • Summer: Escape the heat and revel in the vibrant atmosphere of popular resorts. Be prepared for larger crowds.

  • Winter: Embrace the magic of soaking in steaming pools amidst snow-covered mountains at higher-altitude springs like Travertine Hot Springs.

Mineral Matters: Unmasking the Magic:

The mineral content of each spring paints its own therapeutic canvas. Here's a glimpse into the science behind the warmth:

  • Sulfur: Found in springs like Sweetwater Eco Spa and Harbin Hot Springs, sulfur boasts anti-inflammatory properties, benefiting joint pain and skin conditions.

  • Magnesium: This "relaxation mineral" in springs like Orr Hot Springs and Sierra Hot Springs eases muscle tension and promotes stress relief.

  • Silica: The silky smoothness of springs like Vichy Springs Resort comes from silica, beneficial for skin health and hair growth.

  • Lithium: Trace amounts in springs like Montgomery Woods' pools can have mood-boosting and stress-reducing effects.

Esalen Institute

The grounds of the Esalen Institute were first home to a Native American tribe known as the Esselen, please respect this if you visit.

Over 17,000 people from every part of the world participate in nearly 600 seminars each year at Esalen's Big Sur campus.

Esalen is more than just a hot spring; it's a transformative journey that combines geothermal bliss with mindfulness and cultural immersion. However, the communal setting and limited access might not be for everyone.

Note it’s also expensive. One reviewer noted:

If you're part of the overstressed silicone rat race crowd and don't mind blowing 2 to 3 grand in a weekend, this may be your artificial relief valve.

Another recent challenge is the current staff makeup, with reviewers noting:

Reception wasn’t precisely warm and friendly, but rather rude and robot-ized.

Esalen does not have parking spaces for RVs and large vehicles. Large vehicles need to park on Highway 1 at the Esalen entrance.

  • Water Quality: 5 stars - Crystal-clear, ocean-fed pools with no chemical additives, infused with a salty breeze.

  • Ease of Access: 3 stars - Located near Big Sur, the scenic route requires careful driving, and a short walk leads to the pools.

  • Ability to be Alone: 3 stars - Communal soaking in designated pools creates a serene atmosphere, but complete solitude is rare.

  • Water Temperature: 4 stars - Pools offer a range of temperatures, from comfortably warm to hot, catering to different preferences.

  • Health Benefits: 4 stars - Mineral-rich water combined with the ocean air promotes relaxation and general well-being.

  • Nearby Amenities: 5 stars - Esalen offers a holistic retreat experience with workshops, yoga, and delicious vegetarian meals.

  • Overall Score: 4 stars

Orr Hot Springs Resort

By far my favorite hot springs in northern California. It’s like walking into a Hobbit movie with moss covered cabins, a redwoods forest, and trees surrounding the springs. I personally love going on a crisp, clear winter night and watching the stars from the rooftop outdoor bathtubs.


  • Water Quality: 4 stars - Clean and clear water with a faint sulfurous aroma, offering separate mineral and freshwater pools.

  • Ease of Access: 5 stars - Convenient location near Ukiah with paved roads and ample parking.

  • Ability to be Alone: 3 stars - While designated soaking areas exist, the resort atmosphere may limit solitude, especially during peak season.

  • Water Temperature: 4 stars - Pools offer a range of temperatures, from warm to comfortably hot, with cooling plunges available.

  • Health Benefits: 4 stars - Rich in sulfur and other minerals, the water offers potential benefits for joint pain and skin conditions.

  • Nearby Amenities: 4 stars - The resort provides basic amenities like changing rooms and a restaurant, along with optional spa treatments.

  • Overall Score: 4 stars - Orr Hot Springs is a solid choice for those seeking a comfortable and convenient hot spring experience with diverse pool options and amenities.

Sweetwater Eco Spa

Since its founding in 1983, Sweetwater Eco Spa has become an iconic landmark of old Mendocino and a hub in the community.

Originally named Sweetwater Gardens, it was the first spa in Mendocino to provide therapeutic massage and remains the only spa in the village with redwood soaking tubs and saunas.

The communal (clothing optional) 8 person redwood hot tub and traditional redwood sauna are available free of charge to guests of the Inn.  They even supply the robes and towels! Outdoor private redwood hot tubs and infra-red saunas may also be reserved for a small fee. 

  • Water Quality: 5 stars - Pristine, spring-fed pools nestled amidst redwoods, free from chemical additives.

  • Ease of Access: 3 stars - Requires a moderate hike through a redwood forest, offering a scenic but challenging approach.

  • Ability to be Alone: 5 stars - Limited capacity and secluded location guarantee a peaceful and private soaking experience.

  • Water Temperature: 4 stars - The naturally warm pools are perfect for extended soaking, with cooler springs available for refreshment.

  • Health Benefits: 3 stars - Balanced mineral content promotes relaxation and general well-being, though specific therapeutic benefits are less pronounced.

  • Nearby Amenities: 1 star - No amenities are provided, emphasizing the natural setting and self-sufficiency.

  • Overall Score: 4 stars - Sweetwater Eco Spa is a hidden gem for nature lovers seeking a tranquil and rejuvenating soak in a pristine redwood sanctuary. The lack of amenities and challenging access might not suit everyone.

Wilbur Hot Springs

After Orr Hot Springs, this is my second favorite Norcal springs. But it’s completely different. Instead of redwoods, you can watch the sunrise or sunset over the rolling hills of California, the grasses aglow in oranges and yellows.

The spring water itself is unique. When I first got in I thought, wow, my skin feels slimy. But that’s just the high mineral content of the water that makes these springs special.

Wilbur Hot Springs is a unique and immersive experience, offering a blend of natural beauty, relaxation, and a community atmosphere. The clothing-optional policy and remote location might not be for everyone.

The property offers natural medicinal hot mineral springs centered in the heart of an 1800-acre Nature Preserve and located 2 1/2 hours north of San Francisco. Activities include clothing optional bathing in the hot springs and hiking and biking on the many trails in the Nature Preserve.

Sheltered by a Japanese onsen-style “Fluminarium,” the water is channeled into three long flumes with average temperatures of 100, 105 and 109 degrees Fahrenheit.

They also offer a range of healing services like Acupuncture, Esalen Massage, Trager Approach, Reiki, CranioSacral Therapy, Myofascial Release, Thai, Swedish, Sports and Deep Tissue Massage.

  • Water Quality: 4 stars - Clean and clear spring-fed water with a faint sulfurous aroma, offering both indoor and outdoor pools.

  • Ease of Access: 3 stars - Located near Williams, the drive requires some rural navigation, and a short hike leads to the springs.

  • Ability to be Alone: 4 stars - Clothing-optional policy and designated soaking areas offer opportunities for solitude, especially outside peak season.

  • Water Temperature: 5 stars - Pools offer a range of temperatures, from warm to very hot, with cooling plunges available.

  • Health Benefits: 4 stars - Rich in sulfur and other minerals, the water offers potential benefits for joint pain and skin conditions.

  • Nearby Amenities: 3 stars - Basic amenities like changing rooms and a small cafe are provided, though the rustic atmosphere emphasizes nature.

  • Overall Score: 4 stars